Mera Peak Climbing

18 Days

    Mera Peak is a mountain in Mahalangur district in the Barun sub-district of the Himalayas and is administratively located in Nepal’s Sagarmatha region in the Solukhumbu district of Nepal. With its 6,476 meters it is classified as a trekking peak. It comprises of three main peaks: Mera North, 6,476 meters; Mera Central, 6,461 meters; and Mera South, 6,065 meters, as well as a smaller “trekking peak”, which is visible from the south as a separate peak but is not marked on most maps of the region.

    Mera Peak in Nepal is considered a trekking peak and this means that you can technically reach this peak on foot. Okay, it’s not a walk in the park, but it’s not really mountaineering either. Nevertheless, this is a real six-thousander and when you climb Mera Peak, you have a certain right to boast.

    Mera Peak Climbing, Gurkha Expeditions
    Mera Peak Climbing, Gurkha Expeditions

    Major Highlights of Mera Peak Climbing

    • Highest Trekking Peak of the World: Mera Peak
    • Stunning views of the 5 mountains over 8000 m altitude
    • Wild, uninhibited, and beautiful Hinku and Hongu Valleys
    • Unique Sherpa culture and hospitality
    • Ancient shrines and temples
    • Incredible contrasts and complexities of landscapes
    • Varieties of floras and faunas

    Best season for Mera Peak Climbing

    The Everest region, like the rest of Nepal, has 4 different seasons. Spring, summer, autumn, and winter.

    The months from February to May, before the monsoon, and from October to December, after the monsoon, are the most popular for trekking tours to Mera Peak ascents.

    You can also climb this peak when it’s monsoon but it will be a lot quieter this time of the year.

    What needs to be said is that each trekking season has its own excitement and atmosphere for hikers, but if you want to have some assurance about the weather conditions during the trek, be sure to stick to the high season.

    You can also climb Mera Peak in the winter months, but you will need to revise your packing list and prepare for temperatures well below -15 Celsius.

    Required Documents

    You need a climbing permit to climb Mera Peak. You will need permits to enter the Sagarmatha National Park as well as Makalu Barun National Park depending upon the route you choose. En -route, there are regular security checkpoints. You must show your permits to pass through them. You must have the following permits for Mera Peak climbing:

    Local (Everest Region) Area Permit: NRS. 2000 (the US $20)

    Makalu Barun National Park Entry Permit: NRS. 3000

    Mera Peak climbing permit cost according to the four seasons:

    March, April, and May: US $250

    June, July, and August: US $70

    September, October, and November: US $125

    December, January, and February: US $70

    Mera Peak Climbing Gears and Equipments

    Mera peak is a popular mountain peak of the Everest region. It is a difficult ascent if you don’t arrange proper gear and equipment. Therefore, you need to have many technical gears for a successful climb. Here is the list of the must-to-include equipment.

    Climbing Accessories:

    • Climbing Helmet: Choose a good quality climbing helmet. Make sure your warm cap fits under your helmet.
    • Climbing Boots: High altitude, Insulated stiff-soled climbing boots.
    • Crampons: C2 crampons that fit the climbing boots.
    • Climbing Harness: Good quality climbing harness.
    • Ascending device or Jumar
    • Descending or belay device
    • Tape sling: UIAA tested 220cm open tape sling or 2 x 120 cm closed tape sling
    • Carabiners: 2 x lockable carabiners. 2 x non-locking carabiners
    • Prusik loop: Best quality prusik loop
    • Ice Axe: An ice ax with a wrist strap for climbing

    Clothes:

    • Head wears Woolen Hat, Sun Hat, Buff, Glacier Glass, etc.
    • Hand Wears: Liner Gloves, Softshell Gloves, Insulated Shell Gloves, Expedition Mittens
    • Foot Wears: Liner Socks, Wool or Synthetic Socks, Gaiters, Trekking Shoes, Boots
    • Body Wears: Underwear, Baselayer Bottom, Long Sleeve Shirt, Softshell Pants, Hardshell Pants, Softshell Jacket, Mid-layer Top, Hard Shell Jacket, Insulated Down Parka, Insulated Synthetic Pants

    Interesting Facts About Mera Peak

    • Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in the world.
    • It has 3 different and distinct summits. Mera North (6,476 m), Mera Central (6,461 m), and Mera South (6,065 m).
    • Mera North is still considered the true summit.
    • It stands to the south of Mount Everest.
    • There is no lodge in the Hinku or Hongu Valley. This trek is also the best one for Camping.
    • The peak was first ascended by J. M. Robert and Sen Tenzing in 1953. However, the credit for scaling the true summit goes to Marcel Jolly, G Baus, and L Honills in 1975.
    • The route used by the first expedition is still the standard route for this peak.
    • There are several options to reach the Peak but they are not used by many expeditions teams as they are relatively more challenging.

    Tips for Mera Peak Climbing

    • Pack sufficient, collect right gears and equipment as per the season
    • Get the permits and register your entry
    • Acclimatize and Acclimatize, do not travel in haste
    • Get trained properly
    • Do not travel alone, hire a professional guide and porter
    • Do not drink or smoke, drink plenty of clean drinking water
    • Be updated with the weather
    • Avoid spring snowfall and winter winds
    • Have a positive attitude

    Virtual Tour of Mera Peak Trek

    Itinerary

    Day 1 :
    Arrival in Kathmandu (1,400m)
    Day 2 :
    Orientation day, equipment checking, gear shopping and sightseeing in Kathmandu. Stay at hotel.
    Day 3 :
    Kathmandu to Lukla Flight and uphill trek till Chhuthang (3,020m): (45 min Flight & 4-5 hrs Trek )
    Day 4 :
    Chhuthang to Tuli Kharka Trek crossing Zatrawala Pass (4,600m): (5-6 hrs.Trek)
    Day 5 :
    Trek from Tuli Kharka to Kothe [4182m/13716ft]: 6- hrs. Trek
    Day 6 :
    Kothe to Thangnak Trek (4,326m): 4-5 hrs. Trek
    Day 7 :
    Reach Khare from Thangnak (5,000m): 5-6 hrs. Trek
    Day 8 :
    Rest at Khare
    Day 9 :
    Khare to Mera Base Camp (5,300m): 3-4 hrs. Trek
    Day 10 :
    Mera Base Camp to High Camp (5,700m): 3-4 hrs. Trek
    Day 11 :
    Summit Mera Peak (21,247 ft / 6,476 m) and descend to Khare: 8-9 hrs. Trek
    Day 12 :
    Reserve day in case of bad weather
    Day 13 :
    Trek back from Khare to Kothe: 3-4 hrs. Trek
    Day 14 :
    Trek from Kothe to Tuli Kharka: 5-6 hrs. Trek
    Day 15 :
    Trek from Tuli Kharka to Lukla via Zatrawala Pass: 6 hrs. Trek
    Day 16 :
    Flight to Kathmandu from Lukla and transfer to hotel: 45 minutes flight
    Day 17 :
    Free Day and Farewell Dinner at Kathmandu
    Day 18 :
    Final Departure