Mera Peak Climbing

18 Days

Mera Peak is a mountain in Mahalangur district in the Barun sub-district of the Himalayas and is administratively located in Nepal’s Sagarmatha region in the Solukhumbu district of Nepal. With its 6,476 meters it is classified as a trekking peak. It comprises of three main peaks: Mera North, 6,476 meters; Mera Central, 6,461 meters; and Mera South, 6,065 meters, as well as a smaller “trekking peak”, which is visible from the south as a separate peak but is not marked on most maps of the region.

Mera Peak in Nepal is considered a trekking peak and this means that you can technically reach this peak on foot. Okay, it’s not a walk in the park, but it’s not really mountaineering either. Nevertheless, this is a real six-thousander and when you climb Mera Peak, you have a certain right to boast.

Mera Peak Climbing, Gurkha Expeditions
Mera Peak Climbing, Gurkha Expeditions

Major Highlights of Mera Peak Climbing

  • Highest Trekking Peak of the World: Mera Peak
  • Stunning views of the 5 mountains over 8000 m altitude
  • Wild, uninhibited, and beautiful Hinku and Hongu Valleys
  • Unique Sherpa culture and hospitality
  • Ancient shrines and temples
  • Incredible contrasts and complexities of landscapes
  • Varieties of floras and faunas

Best season for Mera Peak Climbing

The Everest region, like the rest of Nepal, has 4 different seasons. Spring, summer, autumn, and winter.

The months from February to May, before the monsoon, and from October to December, after the monsoon, are the most popular for trekking tours to Mera Peak ascents.

You can also climb this peak when it’s monsoon but it will be a lot quieter this time of the year.

What needs to be said is that each trekking season has its own excitement and atmosphere for hikers, but if you want to have some assurance about the weather conditions during the trek, be sure to stick to the high season.

You can also climb Mera Peak in the winter months, but you will need to revise your packing list and prepare for temperatures well below -15 Celsius.

Required Documents

You need a climbing permit to climb Mera Peak. You will need permits to enter the Sagarmatha National Park as well as Makalu Barun National Park depending upon the route you choose. En -route, there are regular security checkpoints. You must show your permits to pass through them. You must have the following permits for Mera Peak climbing:

Local (Everest Region) Area Permit: NRS. 2000 (the US $20)

Makalu Barun National Park Entry Permit: NRS. 3000

Mera Peak climbing permit cost according to the four seasons:

March, April, and May: US $250

June, July, and August: US $70

September, October, and November: US $125

December, January, and February: US $70

Mera Peak Climbing Gears and Equipments

Mera peak is a popular mountain peak of the Everest region. It is a difficult ascent if you don’t arrange proper gear and equipment. Therefore, you need to have many technical gears for a successful climb. Here is the list of the must-to-include equipment.

Climbing Accessories:

  • Climbing Helmet: Choose a good quality climbing helmet. Make sure your warm cap fits under your helmet.
  • Climbing Boots: High altitude, Insulated stiff-soled climbing boots.
  • Crampons: C2 crampons that fit the climbing boots.
  • Climbing Harness: Good quality climbing harness.
  • Ascending device or Jumar
  • Descending or belay device
  • Tape sling: UIAA tested 220cm open tape sling or 2 x 120 cm closed tape sling
  • Carabiners: 2 x lockable carabiners. 2 x non-locking carabiners
  • Prusik loop: Best quality prusik loop
  • Ice Axe: An ice ax with a wrist strap for climbing

Clothes:

  • Head wears Woolen Hat, Sun Hat, Buff, Glacier Glass, etc.
  • Hand Wears: Liner Gloves, Softshell Gloves, Insulated Shell Gloves, Expedition Mittens
  • Foot Wears: Liner Socks, Wool or Synthetic Socks, Gaiters, Trekking Shoes, Boots
  • Body Wears: Underwear, Baselayer Bottom, Long Sleeve Shirt, Softshell Pants, Hardshell Pants, Softshell Jacket, Mid-layer Top, Hard Shell Jacket, Insulated Down Parka, Insulated Synthetic Pants

Interesting Facts About Mera Peak

  • Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in the world.
  • It has 3 different and distinct summits. Mera North (6,476 m), Mera Central (6,461 m), and Mera South (6,065 m).
  • Mera North is still considered the true summit.
  • It stands to the south of Mount Everest.
  • There is no lodge in the Hinku or Hongu Valley. This trek is also the best one for Camping.
  • The peak was first ascended by J. M. Robert and Sen Tenzing in 1953. However, the credit for scaling the true summit goes to Marcel Jolly, G Baus, and L Honills in 1975.
  • The route used by the first expedition is still the standard route for this peak.
  • There are several options to reach the Peak but they are not used by many expeditions teams as they are relatively more challenging.

Tips for Mera Peak Climbing

  • Pack sufficient, collect right gears and equipment as per the season
  • Get the permits and register your entry
  • Acclimatize and Acclimatize, do not travel in haste
  • Get trained properly
  • Do not travel alone, hire a professional guide and porter
  • Do not drink or smoke, drink plenty of clean drinking water
  • Be updated with the weather
  • Avoid spring snowfall and winter winds
  • Have a positive attitude

Virtual Tour of Mera Peak Trek

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Mera Peak Climbing